It had been six years since we last hiked to North Branch, so with the forecast for the first week of July calling for highs reaching 30°C or more, I thought it would be good to get a hike in before the heat wave. However, this would be a solo hike since my brother had other commitments.


Map from the Canada Maps App used to track this hike. OSM Topo base map.




I set out near the trail to the McIntyre Clearing. Information about the homestead and stopping place that was established at this site in the 1880s can be found on the Friends of Bonnechere website at the following link.

Map of Algonquin Provincial Park, Canadian National Railway, 1926. This map and a collection of historical maps of the park can be found on the website of Bob and Diana McElroy. Map Collection

A hundred years ago a road ran north from McIntyre Clearing passing between May Lake and White Partridge Lake, and from there followed a route to Lake Travers. Today, the cart trail down to White Partridge pretty much follows that old route, but the road from the landing at White Partridge to McIntyre Clearing no longer exists.


The first part of this hike was on an old logging road on the east side of the North Bonnechere River. Logging has taken place south of Teal Lake over the years but as you travel north the road is getting grown over and it won’t be long before it becomes only a narrow trail.


The blue line shows my route. At around the 6 km mark you cross a stream flowing out of Teal Lake and down to the North Bonnechere River. The trail keeps to the high ground above the river for several kilometres. Along the way you can hear the river flowing over small rapids below you.


The stream flowing out of Teal Lake.


You travel over several steep hills after Teal Lake climbing to 400m at the highest point. After descending, and after walking 9 km, off in trees I noticed this older version of a “portage crossing ahead” sign. The portage is a short distance ahead — taking it to the west you come to North Branch; turning east the trail goes to Loonskin.

I took the trail to North Branch.







The start of the trail down to the lake.


This is a spot close to the put-in at North Branch. I’ve never read anything that explains how the lake got its name but it might be because it is the head water of the north branch of the Bonnechere River.


Many people have a favourite lake in the Park. I would have to say North Branch is mine. While I have hiked to the lake several times over the years, I had never seen the campsites, so I decided I would make my way up the lake to check out two sites located roughly half way up the lake.



The first site along the east shore is quite small and looks to be rarely used.



There is a fire pit and grill but it would probably not be suitable for more than one tent.


I continued along the lake making my way around a marshy area seen toward the right side of this photo. I wanted to reach the point which is the location of the second campsite.


This second campsite is far superior to the first. It is located on a peninsula, with a large area of flat ground in a nice stand of red pine.


There is a sandy bottomed approach to the site with a gradual drop off to deeper water.


One of the most attractive features of the site is the view. With the campsite situated on a narrow peninsula, the lake is visible on three sides from the fire pit.


I took a break here and stood in the lake for a few minutes to cool off.


Hiking alone this time, I experimented taking photos using the timer on the phone. I changed socks here — it might sound strange to some people, but in my experience putting on clean, dry socks after having walked for several hours is one of the great pleasures in life.


Making my way back along the lake again. You pass through a forest of red pine and ferns for a good distance.


I’m back to the portage. Checking the time I decided it was early enough that I could probably carry on to Loonskin. The portage sign indicates it’s a distance of 4775m. Coming down the trail to the lake on my way in I had noticed fresh bear sign, but the bear likely heard me coming when I was still off some distance.



It didn’t look as though anyone had travelled across the portage yet this spring. There were no footprints in the muddy sections and the ferns and plants had not been disturbed, which you expect to see after someone has used the trail. The first section of the portage, back to where I had turned down toward North Branch, was clear of obstacles, with just a few scattered branches here and there along the way.



At the intersection there is a marker indicating the trail goes on to Loonskin. This is a long, rocky trek, and unlike the section that leads to North Branch there are a good many trees down on the trail — several very large, old white pine, as well as poplar that appear to have fallen quite recently. For anyone carrying a canoe, until the portage is cleared, it will require more travel time in order to get over, under or around the fallen trees.


Around half way across the portage you come to a wet area. Part of the trail is submerged along this stretch but it is not difficult to get around it.


Crossing on this beaver dam is part of the portage. In years past I recall there was just this one beaver dam to get across. Today, there are two smaller dams to cross prior to reaching this one — one has been established for a few years, and the other appears to have been constructed this spring.


After what felt like a very long 4.7 km hike from North Branch, Loonskin came into view. While it is not the longest portage in Algonquin, I have seen it described as one of the most gruelling and difficult. It is a demanding hike involving a significant elevation change and sections that are boulder strewn.


Loonskin Lake


It was around 11:30 AM when I arrived at the lake so I stayed here a while and had lunch.


By noon the temperature was 29 degrees so I didn’t stop to take additional photos on the return journey. It was nice to have the the opportunity to see a favourite lake again.


The route — 28.8 km




Link to past trip reports.