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Dates: September 29, 2024 to October 1, 2024
Access point: #9 Rock Lake
Night 1: Galeairy Lake
Night 2: Pinetree Lake
Total distance: 46.02 km (excluding detour to Farm Bay Trail)
Total portaging: 9.73 km
Day 1: Rock Lake to Galeairy Lake
We departed Rock Lake in dense fog at 8:15 AM. We could only see a few meters in front of our canoe, which prevented us from seeing the cliffs and rock formations as we headed south. By the time we arrived at Galeairy, the fog was beginning to clear and it was a perfect, sunny day with virtually no wind.
Our plan was to find a campsite as far east as we could on Galeairy to minimize our travel on day 2. Although we had the only permit for Galeairy that night, the lake was fully booked the night before and all of the campsites we passed were still occupied by the time we reached Farm Bay around 11:15 AM.
We decided to take the Farm Bay Trail to see the Farm Bay Falls. It is a short, easy hike to the falls, and they are quite impressive. We spent a few minutes at the falls, had a snack, and by the time we paddled back to the main section of Galeairy, many groups were packing up and heading out towards the Galeairy access point.
We paddled east to campsite #15, set up our tents, and had a great day swimming, relaxing, and cooking at camp.
Photo 1: Farm Bay Falls.
Photo 2: Campsite #15 on Galeairy Lake.
Photo 3: Looking south on a gorgeous, calm Galeairy Lake.
Photo 4: NY strip seared on a smooth, flat rock that was buried in the coals. This method produced one of the very best steaks I have ever had - camping, or otherwise.
Last edited by Bampot (11/24/2024 5:32 pm)
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Day 2: Galeairy Lake to Pinetree Lake
We were treated to more perfect weather on our second day and we launched onto a perfectly calm Galeairy Lake before 8:30 AM. After stopping to check out the Alligator remnants, we crossed back into the Algonquin Park boundary and by 9:45 AM, we reached our first portage of the day – the 1580m from Galeairy to David Thompson. Although there were a few blowdowns and some overgrown sections, the portage was relatively straightforward and we arrived at David Thompson Lake at 10:12 AM.
We enjoyed an easy paddle through the very picturesque David Thompson Lake and within 20 minutes we arrived at the next portage into Horseshoe Pond. There is a sturdy dock at the landing. However, the last section (5 or 6 m) that connects to the shore is no longer intact, and required a detour through marshy areas to cross.
Fraser Lake was also very beautiful. We paddled by the only campsite on Fraser Lake. It looks like a great spot, and one that I have earmarked as a potential destination for a future trip. Around noon, we had reached the takeout to our last portage – the 1840m into Pinetree Lake, our destination for night 2. The portage was slightly uphill, but only took us approximately 40 minutes to complete. Despite being designated as a low maintenance portage, it was in remarkably good condition.
I had wanted to visit Pinetree Lake for several years, and it did not disappoint. We paddled to the southernmost campsite (#3) and by 2:00 PM, had our tents set up and lunch prepared.
Photo 5: Remnants of McCrae Lumber Company's "Madawaska" Alligator on Galeairy.
Photo 6: Launching onto a pristine David Thompson Lake.
Photo 7: Missing dock at the takeout on David Thompson and the beginning of the portage into Horseshoe Pond.
Photo 8: Beautiful rock face and pine trees on the shore of Fraser Lake.
Photo 9: View looking north from our campsite on Pinetree Lake.
Photo 10: Relaxing spot by the fire. Clear skies treated us to warm sun all day, and incredible stargazing at night.
Last edited by Bampot (11/27/2024 8:25 am)
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Day 3: Pinetree Lake to Rock Lake via Rock Creek
We knew that our last day would present some challenges, including over 5 km of portaging on mostly low maintenance routes. There was also the uncertainty regarding how easily Rock Creek could be paddled, particularly this late into the season. Version 6 of Jeff's Map also indicated that some bushwhacking would be required to get from Rock Creek to Gordon Lake.
We packed up and had breakfast in the dark, and were on the water shortly after sunrise at 7:22 AM. The overnight temperatures had dropped the last two nights, and the leaves finally started to approach their peak colour by our final morning. We reached Rose Lake in less than an hour and had launched onto Fork Lake around 9:00 AM. There was a group camping on the island campsite, which also looked like a great spot to go for a future trip. The portages between Pinetree Lake and Fork Lake were also in fairly good condition.
The first section of Rock Creek was very scenic and relatively navigable. We could tell that the 320m and 40m portages do not see much traffic, and we wondered what condition the bushwhack portage would be in once we reached it downstream. Travel became more difficult after the 40m portage, with several beaver dams, boulders, and deep, soft mud slowing our progress. In fact, it took us about 20 minutes to travel only 200m at one section. We began to worry that getting to the Gordon Lake portage would take hours. Luckily, the creek was much easier to paddle further downstream and we began making better progress again.
After 4 hours of travel from our campsite on Pinetree, we reached the portage out of Rock Creek to Gordon Lake. The entrance was difficult to find, and when we landed on shore, I found the portage sign on the ground. I did my best to reattach it before we started on the bushwhack portage. The first 20-30m was fine, but the trail was soon completely overgrown. I looked at my map on my watch, and concluded that the actual portage entrance must have been 10-20m further west than the route we took. Sure enough, we made our way to the west and soon found a better than expected portage trail. This was a very interesting portage, with lots of moss-covered rock that made footing somewhat challenging. The trail had been flagged with pink tape which was another nice surprise.
The clouds had rolled in and the winds had picked up considerably by the time we put our canoe in at Gordon Lake. The 1490m portage from Gordon to Rock Lake is part of the Booth's Rock Trail, and it was busy with people getting a glimpse of the fall colours. The path is obviously well-worn, and we powered through it in less than 25 minutes. The chop was up significantly by the time we reached Rock Lake, and we decided that my friend would stay with our gear at the Booth's Rock Trail parking lot while I walked back to get my vehicle at the access point.
Photo 11: Near-peak colours on Pinetree Lake.
Photo 12: View of the western most section of Pinetree Lake, looking north.
Photo 13: Perfect morning on Rose Lake.
Photo 14: Rock Creek beginning to narrow and become more challenging.
Photo 15: In my element on Rock Creek.
Photo 16: Portage sign from Rock Creek to Gordon Lake.
Photo 17: Rock Lake was moody by the time we reached it around 1:30 PM, about 5 hours of travel from our campsite on Pinetree Lake.
Summary:
This was a unique trip in that it had a very remote feel even though we departed from a busy access point (#9 Rock Lake), and camped on access point lakes both nights (#13 Galeairy and #12 Pinetree). It also gave us a good variety of large lakes, small lakes, and low maintenance portages.
Other than the group camped on Fork Lake, we did not see any other people from noon on our first day until we reached our last portage from Gordon to Rock.The section from Mud Bay to Gordon Lake is one of the prettier I have been through in the park. Rock Creek had some challenging sections, but overall, I can't see why this route is not more frequently travelled.
I would highly recommend this route to any intermediate paddlers and above. I suggest doing it in the direction we did for the following reasons: (1) Almost no portaging on day 1 allows you to bring more fresh food for the first day and be rid of the food weight for the heavier portaging required on days 2 and 3; (2) You are going downstream on Rock Creek; (3) This direction allows you to break up the daily travel roughly equally, with nice lakes to camp on each night.
Last edited by Bampot (11/27/2024 8:25 am)
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Really nice report, Bampot. I've eyed this loop a few times in the past and this report is quite encouraging - beautiful area, beautiful photos! Nice adventure man.
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Peek wrote:
Really nice report, Bampot. I've eyed this loop a few times in the past and this report is quite encouraging - beautiful area, beautiful photos! Nice adventure man.
Thanks! This route would likely be classified as moderate difficulty overall. Compared to some of the routes you have written about in your trip reports, this one would be no problem for you. In fact, you may even decide to keep going down Rock Creek instead of taking the portage to Gordon Lake. There are some rapids just downstream from the portage. If you can bushwhack around those, the rest of Rock Creek could be possible and it would significantly reduce the amount of portaging required.
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Nice write up, fun to read. When I noticed the question under Trip planning it reminded me of a post by Drew that had some detail on Rock Creek: Pinetree Lake Loop – All of Algonquin . Figured I would link it for you in case you were interested.
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Thank you for your trip report! This loop has moved up on the to-do list after reading your captivating report. Appreciate the photos and was great to learn about your bushwhack experience going from Rock Creek to Gordon.
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I did not appreciate the baby-skull rocks at the Pinetree end of the Fraser-Pinetree port. It's one of those things that could turn from a minor annoyance to a serious problem. Wear good ankle support.
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Looks like a bunch of us were hovering over this section of the map! Thanks for posting the report and the excellent photos... added to my list too!