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Hey Marko 
The GB is a safe tool to use if you change a couple things when using it. Found a great video by Ray Mears about choosing and using an axe.
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Great video! Couple of caveats:
1) Kneeling is tricky in snow sometimes
2) The side-cutting axe technique is not effective for larger logs (i.e. 4" or larger)
I like to put the axe against the top of the log, then swing the log and axe down onto the cutting block (about 2-3" down). This is enough to have the axe bit the top, then I make short swings while holding the axe with two hands. Seems to work best. Haven't tried to make my own wood wedges, that would be fun for larger logs.
One thing: just came back from a 2-nighter in Algonquin - boy is the wood wet out there right now. Only standing (and I do mean only 90 degree perpendicular) dead trees were dry inside (the outside 1/2 wood was wet).
Also, with the temp fluctuations the snow on top of the deadman stakes turned to ice. Used the back of the axe as a hammer to free the stakes. Even the aluminum snow shovel could chip away the ice.
Axes are great.
I was also thinking that an even lighter option for the summer would be a full tang knife (ESEE 4" - 6" seems like overkill for anything) and Bahco saw.
M
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Hey MM
If you are serious about a full tang knife in the 4-6 inch range a friend of mine put me on to this gentleman. Mike Mossington in North Bay.
You could get him to make you a fully custom blade, choice of handle material, steel, guard, grind, etc...right down to your initials on the sheath.Cost depends a lot on what you get but you would likely get a much nicer blade than an ESEE for less money. I had a long conversation with him and aside from being a super nice guy he was immensely knowledgeable. I know more about the different types of steel than I ever thought I would.Tons of info on his site under "Materials" too.
Anyway worth considering if you go that route.
Last edited by ShawnD (2/27/2016 7:18 pm)
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Axes are great. Hatchets are more useful in the backcountry.
I carry a minimal amount of tools:
1. Silky Zubat 330 - used for cutting wood up to 30cm diameter
2. Hatchet 2lbs. - split wood, hammer, etc.
3. Camp knife 6" blade - endless uses
4. Small multi tool - minimal design
These tools are attached to a utility belt that is worn either around my waist or over a shoulder and across my chest during a portage - weight is not considered in my mind as their usefulness outweighs the cons.
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Until this thread appeared--and the earlier one about knives--I really hadn't given much thought to my tool complement in recent years. The one item that deserves mention is my aluminum folding saw, the last remaining relic from my dad's old canoe-camping kit back in the 70's! After 40 years that thing continues to perform and the same design is offered today--listed at MEC as the 21" Sven folding wood saw. I can see where one of these Bahco models might come in handy in tight situations but those are rare in my experience. I'll take the 21" blade over the 7.5" for the greater efficiency despite the slightly higher weight. This plus a pocket knife and a Leatherman (mostly for repair purposes) have stood me in pretty good stead over many years.
Here's my question: has anyone ever used their tools to help clear a portage? I'm heading into some low maintenance country in the spring and expect to encounter obstacles on the trails. I've always managed to find ways around or over fallen trees but I haven't spent a lot of time in low maintenance territory and I'm thinking this may not be as easy to manage. Just wondering if you've found any particular implement useful in such situations . . . perhaps the Bahco I'm so quickly dismissing Lol?
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Generally it's much easier to walk around - especially in May as the undergrowth hasn't popped up much.
I've had to cut through a blow-down twice, both of them on fairly steep hillsides where it wasn't possible to walk around. Where possible, limbing a tree is much faster than cutting the log (and then stepping over the clean log). Axe works well. Chainsaws preferred :D
M
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