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Had to retire my old F150 last year which means putting a canoe on top of my new (er) Atlas. Very few if any tie down spots that won't involve rubbing so I was looking at the trunk/hood tie down loops. I will be able to strap a canoe to the luggage rack but would like to prevent side movement caused by highway wind etc and also use the loops as backup security. Does anyone have experience with the loops - concerns are do they stay in place and will they scratch the paint or damage a car over a 3+ hour drive?
I am thinking of these or similar:
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I've used them multiple times in the past and have never had any issues.
I've only used them to transport from outfitter to access point though, never done a 3hr+ drive. But I didn't have any issues going from Kearney into Mag access for example (approx. 1hr, mix of paved and gravel).
I'm getting my own canoe this year and plan on using these loops as part of my tie-down process every time.
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I used hood loop straps on my last vehicle for years and never had a problem with them. They're definitely a good option.
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Gord - I use two different types. It wasn't intentional that I ended up using two different types, it was really based on availability, but I use 1) the Thule Quick Loop Strap and 2) Seals Quickie Hood Loops.
For the Thule Quick Strap: the black tube part feels a bit like oversized garden hose, and fits well into spots under the hood. For the Seals Quickie Hood Loops: The black tube here is a hard-ish plastic. It is not as wide as the Thule tube, and in my case, the tube is only a couple of inches long, though I've seen ones that are longer for sale.
My preference is the Thule. No problems with it at all. The Seals one, at least my version of it, is not a solid tube. There's an intentional opening in it, kind of a slit that runs the length of the tube. I'm not sure why it exists, but over time the tube has become a little out of shape because of that slit. Hard to explain, but it is for this reason I use the Thule under the hood and the Seals under the rear hatchback of my Rav 4.
When I drive to Algonquin, I'm driving from Buffalo, so that's a pretty fair distance. The canoe moves around a bit, but it isn't because of the hood straps. I strap that boat down about as hard as I can, but going over the bridge near Hamilton, I'm lucky I don't end up parasailing into the atmosphere with a canoe on top of the car. The belly bands always give a bit. The boat always, always, always moves there.
I've not had any damage or scratched paint, etc., using them. They don't slide around. The one thing that I don't care for is unavoidable. I'm exerting upward pressure on the hood when I strap the boat to the car. It hasn't caused my hood to feel loose, it doesn't rattle around, it hasn't been pulled out of shape, etc., but I always worry about that kind of thing. After all, the hood is pulled slightly up when you tighten the boat to the car, and then you're getting air pushing underneath the hood for the entire drive...but nope. No problems.
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I've used hood loops for the last 20 years or so with no problems on trips up to 9 hours long, on several vehicles (basically since every vehicle but pickups came with plastic bumpers). I've always used ones that bolt to the fender to core support bolts- it's a one shot deal, the bolt is removed, and the strap added with a fender washer, then the bolt is replaced. The strap is flipped under when not in use. I don't really like using the tube type because they can put a lot of strain on the hood latch
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If your canoe is moving around a lot and you want to stop it get yourself a set of these, a bit pricey but work like a charm.
MooseWhizzer Dave wrote:
Gord - I use two different types. It wasn't intentional that I ended up using two different types, it was really based on availability, but I use 1) the Thule Quick Loop Strap and 2) Seals Quickie Hood Loops.
For the Thule Quick Strap: the black tube part feels a bit like oversized garden hose, and fits well into spots under the hood. For the Seals Quickie Hood Loops: The black tube here is a hard-ish plastic. It is not as wide as the Thule tube, and in my case, the tube is only a couple of inches long, though I've seen ones that are longer for sale.
My preference is the Thule. No problems with it at all. The Seals one, at least my version of it, is not a solid tube. There's an intentional opening in it, kind of a slit that runs the length of the tube. I'm not sure why it exists, but over time the tube has become a little out of shape because of that slit. Hard to explain, but it is for this reason I use the Thule under the hood and the Seals under the rear hatchback of my Rav 4.
When I drive to Algonquin, I'm driving from Buffalo, so that's a pretty fair distance. The canoe moves around a bit, but it isn't because of the hood straps. I strap that boat down about as hard as I can, but going over the bridge near Hamilton, I'm lucky I don't end up parasailing into the atmosphere with a canoe on top of the car. The belly bands always give a bit. The boat always, always, always moves there.
I've not had any damage or scratched paint, etc., using them. They don't slide around. The one thing that I don't care for is unavoidable. I'm exerting upward pressure on the hood when I strap the boat to the car. It hasn't caused my hood to feel loose, it doesn't rattle around, it hasn't been pulled out of shape, etc., but I always worry about that kind of thing. After all, the hood is pulled slightly up when you tighten the boat to the car, and then you're getting air pushing underneath the hood for the entire drive...but nope. No problems.
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I absolutely love the loops. I've used two types - ones with a heavy-duty hose that slides in between the hood and the fender when it closes and I've also attached a loop to the bolts or holes under the hood.
I first attach the top straps very tight to the roof rack or through the vehicle if no roof rack. Then tighten down the front and rear with two straps on each. The result I look for is that the back straps should be pulling the canoe down and forward and the front straps should be pulling the canoe down and backwards (so the strap connection on the hood should be towards the back of the hood on the side towards the windshield. This sets up opposing forces that pull against one another and maintain security.
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I use the loops quite often for 3 plus hour drives on rough roads. Cant say I have had any issues whatsoever with them. A great option even if you do have tiedown spots on your vehicle. That way you dont have to crawl in the mud!
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Bob - thanks very much for the suggestion. I've looked for, and looked at those things, and recently concluded I need to get a set. That last time over the bridge I had to go right lane, put on the hazards, and slow it down to get over. The wind was absolutely absurd.
OK BOB, I edited my comment because you pushed me over the edge! I just bought a set. (Had to get an older style because I use the rectangular Thule bars and not the newer aerodynamic bars). Remember, when my wife rolls her eyes at me for spending $80 on four triangles, this is YOUR FAULT. Well, wait a minute. I can't really go with "some guy on the internet said I should buy these" and be successful. Let's just hope she doesn't notice for a while, and then I can say "those things? Oh, I've had those for a while!"
Last edited by MooseWhizzer Dave (4/05/2022 10:58 am)
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I have used a set of the screwed in loops. They're always there tucked away and out when I need to trip with them.
I wish I had something like them for the back, but I just end up tying down to my hitch.
Unless its really windy, I don't have an issue with it moving.
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Thanks all for the quick responses and good suggestions to look into.
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lol You'll love them, I bought a set after one windy trip across that same bridge (The Burlington Skyway). I don't think I even had the canoe off the car and was online ordering them. The older style works perfectly. Enjoy!
Bob - thanks very much for the suggestion. I've looked for, and looked at those things, and recently concluded I need to get a set. That last time over the bridge I had to go right lane, put on the hazards, and slow it down to get over. The wind was absolutely absurd.
OK BOB, I edited my comment because you pushed me over the edge! I just bought a set. (Had to get an older style because I use the rectangular Thule bars and not the newer aerodynamic bars). Remember, when my wife rolls her eyes at me for spending $80 on four triangles, this is YOUR FAULT. Well, wait a minute. I can't really go with "some guy on the internet said I should buy these" and be successful. Let's just hope she doesn't notice for a while, and then I can say "those things? Oh, I've had those for a while!"
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I've used the loops from MEC for years, as well I've made my own in a pinch . I've also use them in the rear hatch when no other option to tie to . Never any issues. As far as side to side movement I use foam pipe insulation . I've used full lengths on the cross bar and shorter pieces cut and placed directly on the gunwales. I find the compression of the foam once tied down securely, reduces any lateral movement. Cheap alternative and easy to find, apply and remove.
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I wish I had something like them for the back, but I just end up tying down to my hitch.
Unless its really windy, I don't have an issue with it moving.
you can do similar in the back using the hatch bump stops- part of their job is to help prevent the hatch from entering the passenger compartment in a collision, so they're usually through multiple layers of welded steel, and they're generally outside of the weatherstripping and won't leak in use.
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