The Preamble

I’ve been eyeing a trip out of Shall Lake for a few years now; after all, it’s practically in my parents backyard, just off Major Lake Road, where I’ve spent nearly two decades hunting, fishing and four-wheeling. 

The opportunity to actually get my butt in gear and turn thinking into doing occurred in June when my brother and sister in law mentioned their 14 year old son was interested in camping and turned to my partner and me to help plan and execute a route for later in the summer. 

My first thought was a loop out of Kiosk through Mink, Mouse Erables and Maple, but concluded that was a bit too much for a first trip (let alone my first trip of the year... or maybe I’m just a big wuss).

I wanted them to actually enjoy the experience. I had also considered a canoe-in base camp option such as Rock Lake before deciding Shall Lake offered a good introduction to backcountry camping – it had long enough paddles where you were ready to get out and portage, and long enough portages where you were ready to get back in the boat. And admittedly it scratched my itch to get out there myself. 



We settled on August 16th to 18th, with the first night on Shirley Lake and the second night on Booth. Leading up to the weekend the forecast was not favourable, with a special weather statement issued for significant rainfall. Nevertheless, on sunny, humid Friday, we drove from the Ottawa area to Algonquin Bound Outfitters in Madawaska to pick up our paddles and onto Shall Lake where our canoes were waiting for us. 



While I had a hard copy of Jeff’s Maps in my pack, the app worked flawlessly and came in handy several times to confirm direction and while campsite hunting (thanks to All of Algonquin and Algonquin and Beyond for the campsite reports!)

Day 1 – Crotch to Shirley



The paddle across Crotch was quick and we found ourselves at the 1020m portage to Shirley in under thirty minutes or so. With the recent rainfall, there was no issue getting right up to the take out. 

I did as much research as I could on the portages to ease (or prepare) the newbies (ok, and myself). We packed a few extra things than we normally would’ve if it was just the two of us, so I loaded up and carried as much as I could with the intention of doing a single carry. (N.B. I did not carry the canoe). However, and especially after the first little incline once you cross the road, I was already feeling the burn in my shoulders (wuss). I made it about 400m before I had to abandon a few things and surrender to the double carry. Which, in retrospect, wasn’t terrible. Because I could move faster, I felt it was more efficient. At least that’s what I told myself especially on Saturday’s 1320m from Shirley to Bridle...



After a bit of a break at the landing we set off on Shirley with a goal of setting up camp on site 5 (yes I know the sites aren’t technically numbered). Off in the distance I could see a canoe but couldn’t tell if it was coming towards us or heading in the same direction we were. It was at this point my competitive streak kicked in and, much to my boyfriend’s dismay, I picked up the pace in the off chance we’d beat them to the site even though there was no chance that was actually going to happen. Lo and behold they were coming our way and were nice enough to inform us that the site we were after was taken but the sites further up were free. 



I knew I didn’t want to stay on the island site, but couldn’t remember the quality of the sites further north towards Ancona Bay (I forgot to take a picture the campsite notes I made ((again, thanks to Algonquin and Beyond and All of Algonquin)), and only realized upon return that I included some notes in my..... notes on my phone. Which I had on me. Facepalm). We came across a site with a patch of sand and pulled up to the empty site to check it out: a small beach area with a slight incline up to a massive, open and flat site. Upon some investigation which included several trees with a blackened base and the thunderbox smack in the middle of the site, I realized it was the same site from Algonquin and Beyond which had a good review. (A tarp around the thunderbox took care of the privacy problem with five of us on site.) 





The makeshift “kitchen” was perfect for cooking and hanging a tarp which proved to be a lifesaver for our gear overnight. After setting up our tents after finally deciding where to put them with all the options, we took advantage of the sun and heat and enjoyed some swim time. 

Supper was stew which was thawing in the cooler bag I was carrying. Between that and polishing off the frozen caesars in the Platypus bag, I was looking forward to a lighter pack the next day. (at least that pack). 

With the clouds rolling in (unfortunately no sunset) we cleaned up for the overnight, hung our food pack and sat down to enjoy a fire...which lasted approximately five minutes before the first few raindrops started to fall. And that was the end of that. It was just after 8:30pm when we called it a night. I read for a bit on my Kobo before falling asleep... I woke up later thinking it at least 4am but it was only 10pm... thus began the sleep and wide awake pattern that would last until seven the next morning (and admittedly I have a bit of nighttime bear paranoia). 




Day 2 – Shirley to Booth

It poured rain all night, and I mean all night. I think all of the daddy long legs (DLL) in a ten mile radius took up shelter on the tent mesh. Not the most welcoming sight when I opened my eyes (I don’t do spiders).



After pretzeling my way out of the tent as to not touch one or have one fall on me, we emerged to a cloudy yet rain-free morning  (picture is deceiving, there were far more DLL present). First up was coffee followed by some instant oatmeal, and within a couple hours were packed up and en route to our first portage of the day.



As we neared the end of Shirley where it meets the portage into Bridle, I was certain (although had no way to actually know since I’ve never been here before) we could make a straight shoot down the lake to the portage. Which was kind of true.... except we got to a point where instead of taking a left and going between two land masses, we ended up having to pull over what likely could be paddled over in higher water. That to say, with all the rain, water levels certainly weren’t an issue on this trip.

We pulled up to the 1320m portage and knowing I was in for a double carry for most of it, quickly geared up and set off. The portage wasn’t horrible per say.... I just found it never ended. Even all the mosquitoes carrying me across didn’t make it any faster. Then when I went back for the gear I had abandoned and saw water, I cursed myself for not realizing just how early into the portage I gave up. 

After that I was wishing the paddle across Bridle was a little longer... The 760m portage was mostly quick. I was grateful for how flat it was after I ended up in ankle deep muck in a couple spots before it dried up on higher ground. Twice (I could’ve avoided it the second... ok and third... time around but I was already committed...)

When we got out to the next body of water (which is home to the Kitty Lake Cabin although isn’t technically on Kitty Lake) I saw the rapids that had a 100m portage around them. I knew at certain times of the year you could bypass the portage and run the rapids, at least going downstream. But, with .zero desire to portage again so soon, we checked things out and decided to walk the canoe up the rapids, which worked out just fine.  And welcomed, as I felt gross and exceptionally dirty thanks to the portage gunk caked up my ankles. (and the rapids weren’t swift by any means.)

As we crossed Kitty, we were more than ready to get the final portage over with and get some food in our bellies. When we reached the 640m there were a couple canoes heading out, so we took the wait as an opportunity to split a sandwich and get some fuel for the final push. 

The water was fast at this take out, so I can imagine how reaching the portage in the spring may be almost impossible. (?)

When I reached the top of the climb towards the end of the portage I knew I really wasn’t looking forward to doing that again. Even when I saw the water through the trees I knew not to get my hopes up because even when you see water that doesn’t mean the end of the portage is imminent. Thankfully it wasn’t that far off but I sighed loudly knowing I had to do it again. I didn’t find the portage landing at Booth overly friendly, especially being gassed and ready to call it a day as we maneuvered two boats and gear down the gnarly slope. 

When we set out on Booth I knew I wanted the beach site that Drew from All of Algonquin raved about, and definitely wanted to avoid getting stuck with site 2  (yes I know the sites aren’t technically numbered). Not surprising the beach site was taken and with zero desire to explore further up Booth (and extend our paddle out on Sunday), we headed back down to snag an empty site. 

Site 4 turned out to be the perfect home for us, and I’m not just saying that as it started to rain as we pulled up. I had initially turned my nose up at it because from the water, rocks splattered with seagull droppings and those god awful cormorants were in plain view. Once we got on the site, which was big, had nice flat tent spots and another nice makeshift kitchen, I was able to appreciate the what was actually a great view (void of those god awful cormorants and unsightly rocks).  



The rain stopped as soon as it had begun so we got to work setting up tarps and tents. We heard thunder rumbling and knew time was of the essence. Quick like bunnies we set up and enjoyed a swim and scrub before the torrential rains came. And I mean torrential. It rained hard. And harder. And then harder. And then there was lightning. And falling trees (no close calls thankfully).  



Between the hard and harder rainfall, we managed to enjoy a couple games of cribbage and a hearty supper. It finally cleared up around 7pm, and we sat out by the water to watch the world go by. Then I heard a noise which sounded like rushing water.... soon enough the skies opened again and we headed back under the tarps, although by this point I was soaked from head to toe. However, with it still being humid, I wasn’t cold. The rain let off and we managed to get a fire going despite the wet wood. But alas, it didn’t last long before the rain came back with a vengeance, not to mention full on thunderstorm. It was quite the lightshow, even with my eyes closed. This night there was no bear paranoia. I was way too tired to be nervous and fell into a deep sleep as the storm raged on. 

Day 3 – Booth to Crotch



I was shocked to wake up to daylight and the fact it was seven thirty in the morning. I slept straight through, undisturbed. It was one of the best sleeps I had in a long time, never mind in a tent. And there was only one DLL I had to contend with to get out of the tent. 

The sun was shining and any traces of the relentless storm were non existent. However that was short lived as the clouds started to roll in and the winds picked up. Conversing with my mom over the Spot X we were apparently in store for a rainy day, so we had breakfast, packed up and headed out. We were at  the 640m  in what seemed shorter on the way back than in, and was grateful that since we unloaded/consumed the rest of the extras Saturday I didn’t have to double carry this time. We made it across Kitty and to the 100m where we debated running the rapids. We erred on the side of caution as five people in a three-seater canoe didn’t really appeal to any of us. But when a group behind us easily ran the rapids, we just shook our heads – not mad, just disappointed in ourselves. We considered going back to run them as we were suffering from FOMO, but decided to press on knowing we wanted to check out the Kitty Lake Cabin if no one was there. It was empty so it was cool to check out and made a note to consider it for a stay for 2025. 



At this point we were under an hour to the access point, and I quite enjoyed the meandering route over to and across Farm Lake. I can imagine how beautiful it would be in the fall and mentally checked my September calendar to see if timing would work out to make my way back for a paddle come colour season. 



I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t happy to see access point come into view. We were incredibly lucky to beat the rain during our travels and the last thing I wanted was to get wet just as we were about to unload and get into the cars. We quickly unloaded our canoes and set them back by the permit office before we set off down Major Lake Road to return our paddles at Algonquin Bound. 

We sighed with relief as it started to rain but we were comfortable and dry in the car enjoying some Zach Bryan (“and plenty nights under pink skies you taught ‘em to enjoy).



After an “after” pic at the outfitters, we boogeyed down Highway 60 (in the pouring rain) until we came upon the most amazing site – the Wilno Tavern. A must stop if you’ve never been for authentic Polish food (and if you have a free Tuesday, going to Blues Night is an experience like no other!) It was busy as many had the same idea but thankfully we got a seat without much of a wait and I gorged on the Classic Combo (two cabbage rolls, two pierogi ((onions picked off)) dipped with their house-made mustard with a side of mashed potatoes). We enjoyed our delicious as always meals, topped off with their amazing as always homemade dessert (raspberry rhubarb crumble) as a storm gave an impressive light show. 



There, we said our goodbyes and agreed it was a great trip. 

Takeaways

We were incredibly fortunate to stay dry during our travels and set up. The trip from Shirley to Booth is approximately four hours and is a good enough day for non-seasoned trippers. The route in general if you don’t mind double-backing a bit  (Kitty Lake Cabin to Booth and back) is perfect. You’re not getting the Canadian Shield-esque experience but when you get the loons calling and inhale the strong scent of pine, it’s a win in my books. 

I was happy to check the Shall Lake loop off my list but would definitely go back for an easy weekend trip,  especially to see the fall colours or set up base camp at the Kitty Lake Cabin and day trip from there.

A huge hello to Wendy at the Shall Lake permit office!

Thank you Algonquin. Until next time.